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O Encanto de Zumbi


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Fotos Maxwell Oliveira

It is a beach that has only been populated for 127 years, with a noble history of which to be proud. It has served as shelter and lair for hundreds of sertanejos that ran away from the inclemency of 'seca' (drought) that abated the potiguar interior between the years of 1875 to 1877. The beach, until then, was virgin bush, without owner. That is, its lands were vacant. The only inhabitants had been the indians who, later, ran away from their natural habitat, with the arrival of the white man that came from the sea.

The 'seca' that decimated the potiguar cattle and agriculture compelled the man of the field to leave their lands and to look for a better place, less inhospitable and that allowed the survival of their children. In the beginning, the challenge was the gigantic and unknown sea. The houses had not been constructed on the beach, but maintained a certain distance, where they could cultivate their gardens, planting beans and cassava (mandioca).

At that time already had processed the cauldron of racial mixture that gave origin to the Brazilian people. The fantastic beings of African culture and the myths of the indians, the Portuguese and our 'sertanejo' also gave beginning to our folklore. In the small village, away from the beach, started to appear histories of an animal without head and souls, the famous 'zumbis' that you buzz had as their “habitat” the bushes and the waves of the beach.

The myth was growing and the fame spreading. There it was the beach of Zumbi. The same when the fear was disappearing, the fishing community started to construct to its palhoças along the beach. A badly haunted Zumbi turned into a community inhabited by fishermen.

The activity of fishing represents the biggest source of resources for this beach, which is part of the city of Rio do Fogo, and noted as one of fastest growing in volume of summer houses. Until good lately it was common to follow the work of the women and children of the fishermen, seated in varandas of their houses, mainly to the afternoon, in the task called ' 'tarefa da almofada', that is, working with 'weaving and crochet'. Today, it is rare thing.

For those who want to pass a day in Zumbi, nothing is better that visiting its cove with its centenarians and high coconut groves, following the fishing of shrimp and the small fish in the nets hauled in by the fishermen and to follow the constant arrival of the rafts (jangadas) with samburás full of fish.

Tourism is starting now in Zumbi. For who that intend to pass more than a day being tanned along its sea and in its coconut groves, it has good hotels and the neighboring beaches of Rio do Fogo and Pititinga. But for who intend to be there only a day or passing by car or buggie and wantts to delay there for a little while, the best way to make use of its infrastructure, in terms of bar or restaurant, is the complex of 'barracas' (small beach huts). They are all of different colors. On the beach, the tones green, blue, yellow, white and red identify and give them more charm, amongst the coconut groves. The menus of the 'barracas' is practically equal, in terms of plate and prices and what predominates there are the fruits of the sea (sea foods). By the way, the kitchens are supplied by fish and shrimp 'apanhados' cooked in the hour.

A lunch, based on shrimp, costs R$ 15,00 per person and fish R$ 10,00. They have 'caldinhos' (soups) prepared in the hour, of fish, siri, shrimp or arraiá (ray) for only R$ 1,00.

And to maintain the tradition that the beach was populated by the man of the 'sertão' (interior), in the middle of the menu of fish and shrimp they have a special prominence for the 'galinha caipira' (yard hen) that is accompanied by beans, rice and vegetable, costing R$ 25,00 and which is enough for six people. An interesting detail is that, while they wait their customers, the barraqueiros, kill time playing cards or dominós. And if a customer arrives to drink a cold 'cervejinha' (beer) or to eat a fried fish, the game is interrupted while they are taken care of.


Texto: Hélio Cavalcanti
Tradution by Donald Reid
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